SAINT Pierre is one fine dining restaurant that completely overhauls its menu for each of the four seasons. It's always something to look forward to because it's a chance for owner-chef Emmanuel Stroobant to showcase his ever-evolving cooking style.
Chef Stroobant works almost like a fashion designer, turning out new collections four times a year that are inclined towards the cutting edge while still retaining a classic sensibility. Modern and funky are terms often used to describe his food, with molecular gastronomy-influenced techniques.
In his new Spring menu, he seems to be at the crossroads of classic and funky - the quirky playfulness is still there, but it seems more restrained, playing more of a supportive role to traditional main ingredients.
Perhaps in fashion parlance, you could say his emphasis is on accessories - in the way that they say all you need to dress up a simple, well cut outfit is the right belt or earrings.
Hence, you have a deceptively simple but stunning starter of succulent white asparagus, lightly dusted with breadcrumbs for a delicious crunch so the mild vegetable doesn't get too boring.
This is your basic asparagus with hollandaise sauce dressed up with less sauce but more fun from moist slices of parma ham and a mound of grated hard-boiled egg, while a drizzle of balsamico cuts through any richness.
The master of foie gras also can't be beat when it comes to firm yet yielding lobes of pan fried liver with a supporting strawberry cast ($40) - a tangy vinegar-infused jam that goes wonderfully with the toasted brioche, a glistening slice of strawberry jelly, and a baby strawberry ice cream cone. One has no idea what the ice cream was doing there, but no complaint there. Same with the perfect foie gras armagnac terrine ($40) - a thick slice topped with fried shallots and served with toasted slices of Poilane bread.
As it is with fashion, not everything will appeal. The yummy egg noodles in the bolognaise de homard ($70) would have been better if the lobster bits in the sauce were less dry, along with the overcooked claw garnish.
But the meltingly soft wagyu tenderloin sliced thinly, smeared with mustard (good if you like mustard, not so if you don't) rolled and broiled lightly on top, was lovely, even if the lime-saffron marinade and mustard made it a tad tart. But if you like tart flavours, don't miss this.
The pigeon ($70) is also a winner, and no wonder it's been kept from the winter menu - succulent pigeon breast stuffed with barely cooked foie gras and wrapped with lettuce and bacon has nothing funky about it but it's so good you'll ignore the pretty accessories like edamame mash and honey beans. If you're a lamb person, the duo of 36-hour slow-cooked lamb neck and roast lamb with gorgonzola and polenta is a delight.
The dover sole ($70) is one of the funkier dishes on the menu, but it's more of an acquired taste - the strong flavoured fish on top of a kind of seafood jelly with a crusty crumb top is served with a compressed roll of spinach stuffed with sea urchin mousse, and a test tube of lemony fish soup on the side - beautiful on the plate but if you're more of a cod or salmon person, this would be too fishy and complicated for you, even though the sole was fresh enough.
Desserts sadly, were only so-so with the solitary highlight being Stroobant's flourless chocolate cake served in a jar with coconut ice cream and pineapple cream on the bottom.
Fashion trends may come and go, and it's the same with fine dining - but fans of chef Stroobant will be happy to know that even as he evolves, his food will not go out of style.
Rating:7.5/10
Saint Pierre
#01-01 Central Mall
Tel: 6438 0887 Source: Business Times, Mar. 31, 2008
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